Edinburgh

Edinburgh is a city with volcanoes for foundations. Edinburgh Castle holds a basalt plug above the centre, the Old Town spills down the ridge behind it in narrow closes and stairs, and the Georgian New Town below was drawn with a ruler; both are UNESCO listed. The Royal Mile runs from the castle gate to the Palace of Holyroodhouse, the King's residence in Scotland. Arthur's Seat, an extinct volcano of 250 metres, is climbed straight from the street and gives the whole city at once. This was a capital of the Enlightenment, the town of Hume and Adam Smith, and it still runs on books, theatre and argument; its arts festival is the largest on earth. The National Museum of Scotland and the Scottish National Gallery are both free. Whisky, smoked salmon and haggis hold the table, and the Highlands begin an hour out.